Wills Boco, our guide. We paid him what I hope was a good tip; the nominal rate was something like $15 but he spent nine hours with us. We were the ones who insisted he go to all these Lonely Planet-ruined spaces. We were the ones he had to speak so slowly for (in French, but West African French is easier to understand than the other kinds; plus Wils speaks so clearly that even if you don't speak French you can understand what he means. I'm not sure how that works.) Anyway, he is a great guy and if you are in Abomey, be sure to ask for him at the desk of the Hotel Guedevy.