The Kalemegdan fortress in Belgrade. These are bombs. There's a nervous martial air about the culture --- Clinton was only the latest brigand to assault them. There hasn't really been a time when the Balkans weren't under attack: from each other when invaders were short. Or nasty, or brutish. Even tourist photo albums are under attack (in case anyone could possibly wonder why there isn't a "comments" page on this website. I don't think I have the wit to defend myself against all at once the unanswerable yet mutually exclusive arguments of the Iron Guard, Christ, and the Kosovo Liberation Army.)